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  1. #1
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    Aug 2000
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    In the thread on "Xara X and background layering" I described a method of drawing virtual matting and frames. Comments came back that my description was too hard for a newbie to follow. In reponse I've developed this little tutorial that addresses making a "frame" using the bevel tool.

    The first step is to import or create the image you want to put a frame on. Draw a shape around the image with a thick lineweight and no fill colour. I gave it the line colour I wanted the frame to be.
    http://www.designstop.com/misc/frametutorial/1.jpg

    The second step is to select the shape just created and under the arrange menu apply "convert line to shape". I then applied a shadow using the shadow tool.
    http://www.designstop.com/misc/frametutorial/2.jpg

    In step three a "flat" bevel was applied to the "frame". I played with the contrast slider a bit - sliding it to give more contrast. I also made sure the bevel's "miter join" option was selected.
    http://www.designstop.com/misc/frametutorial/3.jpg

    Continuing along to step four I made a clone (ctrl k) of the shape - I had to be careful to have the shape selected and not just the bevel or shadow. Note that the only noticable change upon making the clone was the shadow became darker. With the clone still selected I resized it larger so its inside edge coincided with the outer edge of the original beveled shape's top flat surface. At that point (the now resized clone still selected) I selected the shadow tool and clicked the "no shadow" button to remove the shadow. And with the shape still selected, I chose the bevel tool and changed the bevel type from "flat" to "round type 2".
    http://www.designstop.com/misc/frametutorial/4.jpg

    Step five was basically a repeat of step four. I cloned the beveled shape created in step four and resized it bigger. The bevel type was changed to "chiselled" and I added a thin shadow using the shadow tool. I found the shadow gave it a bit more depth.
    http://www.designstop.com/misc/frametutorial/5.jpg

    Step six shows how I made a shadow that the frame would cast on the wall. I simply drew a solid filled shape over top of the picture and frame. After applying a shadow to the shape I used the arrange menu to "put to back".
    http://www.designstop.com/misc/frametutorial/6.jpg

    Step seven shows the picture and frame pretty much completed. If you select all the objects and group them, you can move the framed picture around without risk of it falling apart.
    http://www.designstop.com/misc/frametutorial/7.jpg

    Step 8 shows how the image can be placed over a background.
    http://www.designstop.com/misc/frametutorial/8.jpg

    In conclusion I note that it would have been better if in step two I had used a "named colour" for the shape that ended up being cloned twice. A named colour would have made it easier to edit the colour of the completed frame. I also note that in step two it would have been possible to use a fractal, gradient, or bitmap fill that could have created a more textured-looking frame. Also note that the bevel types I used were entirely subjective - use whatever looks right to you and be happy!

    Regards, Ross

    <a href=http://www.designstop.com/>DesignStop.Com</a>

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2000
    Location
    Prince Edward Island, Canada --- The land of lawn tractors
    Posts
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    Default

    In the thread on "Xara X and background layering" I described a method of drawing virtual matting and frames. Comments came back that my description was too hard for a newbie to follow. In reponse I've developed this little tutorial that addresses making a "frame" using the bevel tool.

    The first step is to import or create the image you want to put a frame on. Draw a shape around the image with a thick lineweight and no fill colour. I gave it the line colour I wanted the frame to be.
    http://www.designstop.com/misc/frametutorial/1.jpg

    The second step is to select the shape just created and under the arrange menu apply "convert line to shape". I then applied a shadow using the shadow tool.
    http://www.designstop.com/misc/frametutorial/2.jpg

    In step three a "flat" bevel was applied to the "frame". I played with the contrast slider a bit - sliding it to give more contrast. I also made sure the bevel's "miter join" option was selected.
    http://www.designstop.com/misc/frametutorial/3.jpg

    Continuing along to step four I made a clone (ctrl k) of the shape - I had to be careful to have the shape selected and not just the bevel or shadow. Note that the only noticable change upon making the clone was the shadow became darker. With the clone still selected I resized it larger so its inside edge coincided with the outer edge of the original beveled shape's top flat surface. At that point (the now resized clone still selected) I selected the shadow tool and clicked the "no shadow" button to remove the shadow. And with the shape still selected, I chose the bevel tool and changed the bevel type from "flat" to "round type 2".
    http://www.designstop.com/misc/frametutorial/4.jpg

    Step five was basically a repeat of step four. I cloned the beveled shape created in step four and resized it bigger. The bevel type was changed to "chiselled" and I added a thin shadow using the shadow tool. I found the shadow gave it a bit more depth.
    http://www.designstop.com/misc/frametutorial/5.jpg

    Step six shows how I made a shadow that the frame would cast on the wall. I simply drew a solid filled shape over top of the picture and frame. After applying a shadow to the shape I used the arrange menu to "put to back".
    http://www.designstop.com/misc/frametutorial/6.jpg

    Step seven shows the picture and frame pretty much completed. If you select all the objects and group them, you can move the framed picture around without risk of it falling apart.
    http://www.designstop.com/misc/frametutorial/7.jpg

    Step 8 shows how the image can be placed over a background.
    http://www.designstop.com/misc/frametutorial/8.jpg

    In conclusion I note that it would have been better if in step two I had used a "named colour" for the shape that ended up being cloned twice. A named colour would have made it easier to edit the colour of the completed frame. I also note that in step two it would have been possible to use a fractal, gradient, or bitmap fill that could have created a more textured-looking frame. Also note that the bevel types I used were entirely subjective - use whatever looks right to you and be happy!

    Regards, Ross

    <a href=http://www.designstop.com/>DesignStop.Com</a>

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2000
    Location
    Prince Edward Island, Canada --- The land of lawn tractors
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    Here's what can happen if you use a bitmap fill at step two...

    Regards, Ross

    <a href=http://www.designstop.com/>DesignStop.Com</a>
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Fayetteville, NC, US
    Posts
    30

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    Ross,

    A very nice tutorial. [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif[/img] Xara never ceases to amaze me with its limitless capabilities.

    Joan

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2000
    Location
    USA
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    22

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    Wow Ross that is very, very nice! It looks so realistic that I might not even have to buy a frame to put it in.. [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif[/img]

    Thank you very much for the great work you did there and the effort..

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2000
    Location
    Prince Edward Island, Canada --- The land of lawn tractors
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    Thanks Joan and Michelle

    This technique is very flexible and worth playing with. If you have access to a good printer you can put the frame shop out of business!

    Please note that I've started a second thread on frames called "Virtual Framing Tutorial - Part Two". It covers adding matting and features a simple frame.

    Regards, Ross

    <a href=http://www.designstop.com/>DesignStop.Com</a>

    PS - Bye the way, the "picture" in my example was created in xara too. If you are interested see the thread "blending contoured shapes on a curve..."

    [This message was edited by Ross Macintosh on February 24, 2001 at 09:59 PM.]

  7. #7

    Default

    Ross

    When using rounded bevel it is best to use a 30 degree light elevation, then you won't get the effect of an unpleasant join where the bevel meets the original object, as seen in your bitmap example.

    Mark Goodall
    Xara Ltd

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2000
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    492

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    You got us so geared up. I am ready for part 3
    Looking forward to more tuts.

 

 

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