Pink Rose

[molucca]

Rose with the 100mm Macro lens. I had to back up from the effective flash range to get the full rose in the image. Shot in Manual at F11 and 125.

A pomagranate flower for practice in breezy conditions.

Rich

[raynerj1]

Rich,

Nice Rose! Did you take it at night? Why would you need a flash at F11/125 in the daytime?

[molucca]

Day shot.

F11 increased the depth of field, and 125th helps with things moving. The flash makes up for the light reduction by going to F11. It was a recommendation by Mike Engles to get better bug shots. The 580EX flash is ETTL, but not enough light at longer distances with the shield. The shield helps with the hard shadows. The lighting would have been different with the 17-85 mm lens since I could have gotten closer to the subject.

I have an off camera cable as well, and made a fixture to mount the flash off canera for some shadow.

Still working on focal point. Generally, 1/3 back and 2/3 in will be in focus. I think I have tuned the view so that I see the focal point correctly. Depending on your vision, it could be anywhere. I have been shooting in manual, and I need to know where it is. I cannot get autofocus when shooting very close.

Rich

[raynerj1]

do you get a focus indication with your macro lense? I know when I use my 300MM macro the focus is very touchy. 1/2 to one degree can be in focus or out of focus. Is the lense totally manual?

My 1000MM lense is that way... Hard as heck to take a decent moon shot.

[molucca]

The minimum focal length is about 9 inches from the front of the lens the senor, and the lens is about 6 inches long. So, about 3 inches from the front of the lens to the subject. It doesn't auto focus that close. My 17-85 mm lens does that too.

For auto focus, I set my camera to center point because I am shooting close to other things like leaves and flowers.

There isn't too much room for error, and I always practice to get a good idea of where to focus. I did lots of shots in auto, and then set the view to match in manual.

Rich

[raynerj1]

Hi Rich,

I set mine to spot for the lightmeter and also for the focus. for a flower I will focus on the petals closest to the camera and try and set the depth of field for just beyond the last petal. sometimes it is just trial and error for the depth of field. It is hard to have that back petal in sharp focus and the flower just behind it out of focus... Particuliarly when there is 2 inches between flowers.

I have a 300MM with a macro setting. I usually just toss the camera on the tripod and zoom in as much as I need and then set the exposure/f-stop. do you have a zoom lense with a macro setting? Makes flower pictures so much easier than having to get down to the level of the flowers. I am not a kid anymore you know.

BTW: Nice bright levels on this flower. Loks Good... Did you photoshop it to get the high saturation or did you luck out and get just under the overexposure point?

[molucca]

An as shot image. Tripod with remote switch. Probably with a focus rail and 100 mm lens.

I still haven't found all my files after replacing the hard drive.

Rich

[raynerj1]

Hi Rich!

I like this one better. Not as over exposed. Just the stem and a highlight or two. Very nice image overall.

[parahandy]

That poppy has a wonderful texture Rich..

[molucca]

Norman,

I have a tripod with a clamp for holding subjects, and a tripod with a focus slide for the camera. I use a remote switch for the camera. The shot was in aperature mode letting the time float. The aperature was small to increase the depth of field. The switch keeps my vibration separated from the camera.
The tripods hole the camera and subject in fixed positions. So, with everything still, I can get a good shot. I can only do hand held with short exposure times. I have to rely on the camera to focus and shoot before I move too much.

Rich