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Are we getting tired of this stuff yet?
Sorry James, had to go with the car theme.
The vette was printed on a black shirt. Gave me a world of trouble. Had to send it to PhotoShop.
The Mopars were done in Black & White some time ago for A Mopar Club. I'm not posting the design they were in, just the cars. I felt the need for "Racing Slicks", ie Micky Thompsons on the rear wheels... Gotta have grip!
The boat, just finished today. It's only 2 colors... Now that's alot of graphic for a 2 color job eh? I might do this with 4 plates, 2 for the black & blue so the subtleties in the gradient will print clearer. Thanks Xara!
The Marlin Swim team was finished monday. They liked it so much they've come back to order more shirts. How bout that? Did I say thanks Xara, for a program well done!
Enjoy
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y23...boatmarlin.jpg
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wW....tired of talent like this - no way http://www.talkgraphics.com/images/smilies/wink.gif. The cars are excellent, I've no idea how they're done http://www.talkgraphics.com/images/smilies/eek.gif. The boat is brillaint too, marvellous art http://www.talkgraphics.com/images/smilies/wink.gif.
Christopher.
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GREAT WORK!!
I really like the boat graphic, very very well done. Thanks for posting these. tim
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I like all of em Waldo. Keep up the good work.
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The cars and the boat are very nice. You said only 2 colors for the boat? I don't know a lot about printing so when you print something with the gradients of the gray color does this only count as 2 colors ? black and white ?
I am trying to make something for a shirt and there can only be 6 colors. when I look at the boat grpahic, I see more than 6 colors if you count the shades of gray and blue.
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Hi Bruce,
People say only 2 colors, but it is actually only 2 inks. The amount of ink at any particular spot makes for different shades.
Think back to the days when you used to color in your coloring book. Pressing hard created a different shade than pressing lightly with your crayon. This is the same idea, different application.
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Waldo.
That fishing gin palace is excellent. Take my booking!
Egg
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I don't see anyone on that sexy boat -- the fearless lady and her boy toy must be in the cabin...
Remember kids, if the boat's-a-rock'n-don't-come-knock'n!
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Yes the boat is very nice and maybe there should be at least one person there.
Thanks John , I think you answered my question for the printing and colors. I guess that is the same thing that ww means when he says only 2 colors.
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Thanks for the comments everyone!
Bruce, Whenever the shades of blue or black are used they turn into halftones or dots. John is correct is saying 2 ink colors. Sorry for not being clear.
When printing, If I'm trying to get subtle shading then I'll put the solid areas on one screen (no shading) & a second screen with the entire image. This way they can squeegee the ink with a soft hand for the shades & halftones. Then squeegee a hard pressure pass on the other screen which will be all the solid areas of the print. The solid area's will be hit with two ink passes for a solid & non fading print.
The client didn't want anyone on the boat. It would add a nice touch having some life in there though... He also wants me to take out the fishing chair, which is fine by me, since it didn't turn out that good. It was difficult to see what was going on in the low rez photo he provided. The back of the boat looks cleaner now without the ambiguous chair.
Glad ya'll like this stuff. If anyone has any screen print questions feel free to post questions here or PM, anytime.
wW
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Thank you, wW
for giving me more information. I have been working on a graphic for someone that said they could only have 6 colors for a T-shirt design. I thought it would be nice if I could use the gradients like you did in the very nice cars and boat illustration. BUt I have no experience with with doing this for a shirt. they said that they did not think we could use gradients.
I am not sure just trying to figure it out so I could do a better job for them or do something better in the future. So as it is now I just have solid colors on my illustraton. Maybe I will have to find someone locally that does the shirt printing and discuss it with them to learn more about the process. Thanks again, I really like the work that you do for T-shirt designs.
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Hi Bruce,
Gradients do not work well with any type of printed material. Instead of getting a smooth gradient, you get bands of color. The only way I could think to try is to do fades from one shade of a color to no color on separate layers. Each layer would count as another color and the cost would be prohibitive.
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The banding is due to wrong screen angles or using too small a dot.
The Xara default angles don't work for screenprinting. If your colors are not mixing to make other colors then use a 61 degree angle for all the plates or colors.
The dot size can range from 55 to 65 line using an eliptical dot. The dot size is more dependant on the mesh that the screen printer is using. If they are using low mesh (more ink flows through)- Keep your out put at 53-55 line. A high mesh can use smaller dots (60-65) but it can band or show moire(sp).
I very seldom use a 65 line output from Xara. I don't like the way it prints. It seems that with a larger dot you have more control with the blends. So I tend to lean towards a 60 dot when using alot of gradients. A 55 dot when I'll be using one screen for solid & gradient areas. A good example is the Marlin swim team. It's got a light blue area around the word marlin. Mostly solid lines so I used a 55 line. This way the percentage of blue will print light, like it's suppose to be. Remember, things tend to print darker than you expect. I lighten any solid area that's halftoned by 20-30%. This way it doesn't print too dark.
Word of Caution: Don't mix dot sizes for output. ex-55 one screen & 60 on another for the same print. Moire's everywhere....
For solid area & no gradients. Then you can output at 120 line or use the Xara default setting for print.
If your printing them yourself, output should be on Vellum. Once printed it should be sprayed with Fixitive (Krylon). It solidifies or makes the print more opaque. When the screens are burned it keeps the light from going through the dark printed areas.
Questions?
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Can I ask which product you used to make these ????
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I would wager a rubber biscuit that he used xara, since this is the xara gallery... http://www.talkgraphics.com/images/smilies/wink.gif
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I think it's more to do with wW's skill than the tools he uses!
I hate this dumb question, I get it all the time, as if someone uses the same tools that I use they can do what I do, it's completely retarded.
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LogoVend,
A fair opinion. But don't call people dumb just because they want to know what product is used. I think it's a fair question.
Don't flame.
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If you take photographs people will ask what camera you used, if you say you like listening to music they will ask you about your hi-fi or if you prefer vinyl to CD's, with computers you will either end up discussing the software or the specifications of the PC. It's called making conversation or showing an interest; it's a point of contact, you really shouldn't discourage people from showing an interest.
Derek
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It hit the fan while I was gone... http://www.talkgraphics.com/images/smilies/eek.gif
I'm using XaraX1 Weapon X. My weapon of choice for killin' blank t-shirts.
Xara has spoiled me - it's such a great & intuitive program to use.
When I first started designing for textile print. I was using everything in the Xara arsenal. I've learned to cut back a bit on the bells & whistle's now, trying to use a straight forward approach. Learning to design with flat colors, line & linear fades.
One of Xara's biggest strengths for me is how it uses transparency. I do go crazy with linear fades & they print fine. So I've kept this bell/whistle.
It's taken me close to 2 years now to get to the point where I can take a Xara created design from start to finish (separation to print) from within Xara. Had to change the way I do things slightly. Plus, I'm a thick headed at times...http://www.talkgraphics.com/images/smilies/wink.gif
The prep for sep is the toughest part. Converting lines to shapes, Moulds to curves, Contours to curves & subtracting of overlapping shapes. Conversion & substituting of colors to CMYK etc...
Lots of steps to get to the textile print point with a Xara file. In the end, it worth it! Could be easier though, hint, hint Xara... (next release eh?)
Textile print questions, feel free to ask - Anytime! I check in just about every week day.
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... and I might add that you use it (Xara X1) very well wW. Love the boat ... I was on one very similar recently.
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Hey Waldo,
Ed's comment reminded me of an adventure I had years ago... I was on a boat very simular to the one you drew, out on the James river. Durn thing broke down and left us stranded out in the middle of nowhere. We flagged down another boat, and asked for a tow, they asked if we had any papers... then left us cause we had no papers... http://www.talkgraphics.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
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You had no papers so they let you ... did they want to make a joint. Stoner's can be sooooo selfish!
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Yeppers... So... we had a running gag for a couple years. "Got any papers, man." was the standard gretting amongst the members of that fishing trip. http://www.talkgraphics.com/images/smilies/wink.gif http://www.talkgraphics.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
