Hey there people, I come to you with a question! Could someone tell me what exactly is the burn tool for cs2/cs3, what's it do to an image?
Any help is greatly appreciated n__n
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Hey there people, I come to you with a question! Could someone tell me what exactly is the burn tool for cs2/cs3, what's it do to an image?
Any help is greatly appreciated n__n
The Burn Tool is to selectively darken an area of your image. Increase expose in photographic terms.
Would darken not result in an effect of a decrease in exposure Bill?
Welcome to TG word,
Steve, not darken as in make black but to increase saturation.
My darkroom experience over rides my computer graphic experience when talking about dodging and burning. In the dark room the paper is white and so using a burn tool in the dark room you make the area darker (more saturated). A dodge tool does the opposite where you are reducing the amount of light from the enlarger that illuminates the paper, making it lighter.
In a dark room a burn tool is usually a large card stock rectangle with a pin hole, a dodge tool is a stiff wire with a round circle of card stock taped or clued to the wire. :D
Maybe I spoke too soon, I remember my first attempts to burn in an area of a black and white photo. It did become very black :eek:
So we're talking about different exposures. In photographic terms, an increase in exposure results in more light entering the camera and creating a much brighter image (over-exposed) rather than more saturation. This is how I understand Photoshop users use the D&B tools. In PS, the 'Sponge' tool increases/decreases saturation.
I understand your darkroom analogy to mean more exposue to the chemicals and other post processes?
The burn and dodge tools are dark room accessories. In the dark room you have more latitude in your exposure when working with black and white. Colour development in a dark room (custom processing) is more expensive and more difficult to perform. The colour photo paper is extremely sensitive to most wavelengths of light and the exposure times are very short. Too short for burning and dodging to be done manually. That is one of the best things about Photoshop, it made working on colour prints by burning and dodging as easy as it is in a dark room for black and white photography.
For black and white a typical custom print follows along the following steps:
You put the frame you want to print into the enlarger.
Focus the lens of the enlarger and set the aperature you want.
You then make a test sheet by covering all but 1/10th of a sheet of photo paper. Set the enlarger's timer for 1/10th of a second. Allow the exposure to occur.
Slide your cover sheet so that another 1/10th of the photo paper is exposed and expose the paper again.
Repeat until you have exposed the last 1/10th of the photo paper.
The first 1/10th of the paper exposed will have 1 second total exposure. You will have 10 exposure increments across the photo paper. Place your test sheet of photo paper in the developer for the recommend time for the temperature of the developer. Use the recommended times for rinse, fix, then wash.
Allow the paper to dry and take it out into a fully lighted room or sunlight. Decide which section of the paper has the saturation and contrast you are after.
You then return to the dark room and put a fresh sheet of photo paper down, set the timer for the time your test sheet determined was your favorite. Expose, develop, rinse, fix, and wash then dry. Take this test print out into normal light and determine if some area needs to be burned (increase exposure) or dodged (decrease exposure).
Remember in a dark room with photo paper your increased exposure makes darker (more saturated and decreased contrast) and the decreased exposure makes lighter (weaker saturation and decreased contrast).
OK Bill thanks for the lenghty explaination - I accept all that darkroom stuff because I really don't know any better.
But do you think that PhotoShops Dodge/Burn/Sponge tools work in the same way?
To be honest, I don't....
In thinking more - you're working with negative to positive, where blocking light results in a lighter image. This is the opposite to the way exposure works 'in-camera' and of course the source of my ignorance with your Darkroom techniques....
Of course, photoshop (and digital photos from cams and scanners) are working with positives always.
Just an example.
The first image is a stock photo used for teaching colourisation and using the burn tool.
The second image shows some application of the burn tool to the eyes and mouth only.
See how the colours are more saturated in the second image.
Attaching a section of screen shot to show word the settings I used.
Yep I can see the difference well. Though I have to say, the colours are darker rather than saturated.
Using the Sponge tool in 'Staturate' mode increase the saturation of the pixel colours without darkening them.
Here I sponged one eye and the lips.
I guess we're going to differ on this one, so I'll settle for 'alternative techniques' ;)
Hey didn't I say darken before....memory going rapidly this time of the morning/late night :D
You are correct Steve it does darken. I see where I over burned and the lips have black specs. :eek:
Maybe she is going Goth ;)
not a photographer - just use them
heres my ps6
as you increase the exposure on the tool bar it gets darker
quote from help:
The toning tools consist of the dodge tool and the burn tool. Used to lighten or darken areas of the image, the dodge and burn tools are based on a traditional photographer's technique for regulating exposure on specific areas of a print. Photographers hold back light to lighten an area on the print (dodging) or increase the exposure to darken areas on a print (burning).
my understanding :)
I'm going off-topic a little here (still PhotoShop though :)) but I just had to share this:
Loosing Weight with PhotoShop
burning off the fat though in quite a different way :D
Wow, thank you all so much for the replies!~ I really appreciate it, t'was very helpful<33
TG are always glad to help :)
Thank you for returning and acknowledging.
From my limited knowledge of darkrooms ...... This doesn't seem to be correct. Can someone explain it to me. Please?Quote:
quote from help:
Photographers hold back light to lighten an area on the print (dodging) or increase the exposure to darken areas on a print (burning).
I've never had darkroom experience Keith and can say that this Dodging and Burning technique seemed back-to-front to me at first. But It makes sense to me know that I understand it a little better.
Wiki on D&B
Of course ...... we're playing with negatives, so everything is reversed ..... Now it makes sense.