another bevel question

Why is it everytime i export a bevel it turns out fuzzy????It takes up a big file too?? Help Please??

Sorry, it won't look better :( i think...
In my opinion, the only way is to set as high resolution as your computer can endure, and then resample it (with antialiasing).

how do i do that?

What file format and resolution are you exporting it to?

The bevel remains editable as a vector, however on output is rendered as a bitmap. If you are getting a blurry bevel, then upscale your bevel to huge (like 3 to 4 times your final output) and rasterize it, then pull the height and width down to size, do not, however, make a new bitmap out of it. When you output, you will gain extra resolution where you are needing it. Should work.

Sally...Sorry for all the questions, but how do i rasterize it..I looked it up but still don't understand....Can i rasterize just the bevels and not the rest of the graphics in the file....Would it work if i enlarges the object 3 to 4 times its size, then apllyed a bevel to it, then shrunk it back down to size????

First, double or triple your height and width, use the property bar to do this as it is good to get used to using it. * next to the value that exists in there and hitting enter, mulitiplies for your, / divides the figure by what you put next. /2 divides by two for example or +3.5 add by 3.5" if that is what your units are set to. If you have your transform docker up which I recommend to do and make it your default, the property bar will show the same values, however, the property bar changes all the time to show all the things your can edit on any given thing you are doing, where as the transform docker always shows your x and y coordinates and your height and width of your graphic, rotation, etc.

To rasterize is the same thing as saying to make a bitmap out of it. You do this either from right click or from the pull down menus on Bitmaps, first item, is convert to bitmap. You have options. Your options are on your output size, if you are working for print, then you want to go very high. Since optimal dpi for print is a minimum of 300 dpi for professional printing, go at least 600 dpi, but you can go any number but the higher you go, the higher the file. And no, just making the effect big and then reducing it to the right height and width won't work on its own as it is still considered a live effect. It is no longer live or editable once you make a bitmap out of it. What happens when you make the size big and then make it a bitmap (rasterize) and then pull it down small again is that the pixels more in even denser. The file is still as big, only now it is really fine grain if you will. For web the output is for Windows at 96 dpi (screen resolution) and 72 dpi for MAC. So if rasterizing for that, your optimal dpi, again two to three times up. It then reduce the height and width to what you need. It is all how it looks, but this method with greatly enhance your output. The other thing is that in order for you to really see your effect, DRAW isn't the best at displaying rasters, you should look at it in PhotoPaint, again just a right click away or a double click in 12 or from the Bitmap menu, edit bitmap. I highly suggest you learn to use PhotoPaint as there is probably no other single means of improving your work in DRAW without learning how PhotoPaint works. Again, you can use the property bar or transform docker to reduce your graphic by what value it shows /2 and enter.

There are marvelous resources available for learning DRAW and PhotoPaint available at Unleash.com. I do all the freebies but have done many of the purchased tutorials. Jeff Harrisons are really useful but overall, to really learn DRAW up to speed as quickly as possible the Unleashed Ebooks on DRAW 12 and X3 are outstanding. Well worth the money you spend.

Not that I am trying to get rid of anyone, but so that you know in case you need a second opinion, there is also a forum there and somtimes I particiapte in it also. Foster Coburn, III is the leading authority on all things DRAW and co-host Boot Camp Training sessions with Jeff Harrison. Both are super nice down to earth people and incredibly helpful. If I don't know something, chances are they will.

I cannot know everything, though it seems I may at times (my big head you see), but I learn something new everyday and try and pass that along.

One of the coolest effects is to use the bevels in DRAW in combination with Jeff Harrisons techniques on making metallic lettering.

Don't be afraid to play, that is how you build skill. Adults rather from on "play" but "adult play" is the same type of a learning tool as for children. When it is "fun" you will remember it much better than when you are pressured under a deadline so I do my work at my job and go home and practice until it is fun if I had a problem I couldn't solve during the day.

Even though I use Xara a lot and love to use it, because I must use DRAW at work, I took a year and came home every night and didn't touch any other software and just practiced what I was learning and then I'd post it.
So I am self-taught. But I learned alot in the process.

Employers who want to avoid the high cost of running their graphics department from initial settup costs with Adobe and equally horrendous upgrade costs, like DRAW because it helps them stay in business economically. As there are not as many well-skilled DRAW users, the print shops that do use DRAW are always glad to know another skilled graphic artist, just in case you see they have an opening, you'll be at the top of their list to call.

As many people have a few programs, just the programs alone don't make you a great graphic artist, it really has to be something you love to do. Lots of problem solving involved with it all the time. Always a mental challenge, but I find the challenge fun and invigorating.

Sorry for being long-winded.